For comic lovers, Newton is a character of "rubrique à brac"(Gotlib) who has the gift to receive an apple dropped on his head in all circumstances, and incidentally it was a great scientist known for his work on optics, mathematics and in our case the laws of gravitation. These laws explain the tides.
1First law: motion quantity(Q) is equal to the product of the mass(M) of the body in motion and its speed(V). Q=M*V, the more an object is heavy and fast the more it's a pain to stop it.
2rth law: The forces amount applied to an object in accelerated motion is equal to the mass of the object multiplied by its acceleration. If the object is at rest state(with constant speed or stationary)then according to the first formula it's equal to 0.
3rth law: A force applied to an object creates a counterforce(ex gravity force / buoyancy force(Archimède))with the same direction and intensity but with opposite direction.
4rth law: The gravitational force(Fg) present between two bodies is equal to the gravitational constant(Gn)multiplied by the two masses of the stars(M1 and M2) and divided by the distance between them multiply by itself(D multiply by D). It is a law of inverse square, the gravitational force intensity decreases very quickly when the separation distance of the stars increases slightly.
Fg=Gn*M1*M2/(D*D)
1)Basically how it works?
The earth has a major surface made of water, this surface deforms itself(few centimeters)offshore in the intertropical area under gravity action(Sun and Moon influence).
The gravity force is not reflected in the same way on the globe, it is stronger near the Moon. We can deduce that there are two high tides at points origins of F1 and F2(because on F2 the force of gravity is lower, centrifugal force is the stongest). With the help of the fourth law we can calculate F, F1 and F2.
F=Gn*Mlune/D(Earth and Moon)multiply by itself
F1=Gn*Mlune/D(Earth and Moon-Earth radius)multiply by itself
F2=Gn*Mlune/D(Earth and Moon Earth radius )multiply by itself
Mlune= 7.36 * 10 power 22 kg
D(Earth and Moon) = 384000000 m
earth radius = 6350000 m
Gn = 6,67*10 power -11 m 3/kg/seconds
With a calculator we obtain :
F approximately equal to 3,3*10 power -5 meters per second, F1 3,4*10 power -5 meters per second and F2 3,2*10 power *-5 meters per second. The tidal force noticed at the ocean surface is the difference between F and F1 and F and F2. So this force is equivalent to approximately 1*10 power -6 meters per second with the Moon only. It's fun to do the same with sun data(weight and distance Earth / Sun)we find roughly 0,5*10 power -6 meters per second(we can see the inverse square law of the distance, although the sun is huge, its high distance from Earth reduces considerably its influences. However, if Mercury planet would have water, it would make a noticeable tide !).
The moon undergoes from earth a tidal force too, much more powerful (F3), that 's why it always shows its same face; Over the centuries this force has made the rotation period of the moon equal to its period of revolution around the earth, in short it is a bit of a mess…
moon radius = 1750000 meters
earth weight = 5,97*10 power 24 kg
F3 = Gn*Mterre/D(Earth and moon-moon radius) multiply by itself
F4(lune center) = Gn*Mterre/D(Earth and Moon) multiply by itself
the tidal force on the moon is = 3*10 power -5 meters per second, 30 times stronger than force played by the moon on earth!
2)Why on the coast a few tens of centimeters becomes in meters (this title is rotten!)
Because the depth decreases quickly to summarize